Thursday, August 28, 2008

The blog that stopped time.

With the limited internet use, and my end-of-the-day exhaustion, I was forced to take a pause in my story. But no worries! More is on the way, as I hope to fill in the 2nd week of the trip, and post many more photos!

Stay tuned!

Monday, August 18, 2008

Thursday and Friday afternoon

Both Thursday afternoon and Friday morning/afternoon were spent traveling between cities.

Thursday morning, we joined Doris as she ran errands in the city of Hvar to buy supplies for the restaurant. We walked around the harbor and took photos and browsed thru the local vendors that lined the sidewalks with olive oil, lavender oil, embroidered linens, and a variety of typical knick knacks; magnets, jewelry, coasters, and all the other stuff you can write "Hvar" on and sell to tourists.

Our plan was to catch the 1:00 car ferry back to the mainland, but that sold out quickly, so we spent a few more hours in Milna, then headed to the Stari Grad port to catch the 4:00pm ferry instead. The blue sky and dry air made for yet another lovely ride back to Split. We headed to the next hotel to check in then went back over to the Meridien for more cash. We stayed for dinner (which was awesome; I had veal wrapped in prosciutto with polenta and stuff onion) then called it a day.

Friday morning, we overslept and missed out on free breakfast. We made a pit stop at the grocery store, picked up some pastries and drinks then started the trek to Medjugorje.

Wow.

WOW.

What a beautiful drive. For the first 40-50 miles, the road wrapped around the side of the mountain and overlooked the sea and neighboring islands. Every town that we came upon was built up from the beach and the houses were stacked up the hill to the highway. One bad move off the road, and any car could fall off the cliff and thru the roof of some random house. With my dad's need-for-speed driving skills, I didn't think we were far from doing just that. Some time after we passed by the town of Igrane, the road curved away from the shore and in between the mountains. The valley was just as picturesque. Forests, lakes, farmland, and the occasional house. My finger was permanently glued to my camera the whole time.

Photos:

Outside of the hotel Friday morning.


Driving along the coast on the way to Medjugorje.


Passing by the city of Igrane.


An example of the distance from the highway above the cities.


More scenery as we head away from the coast into the mountain valleys.


Leaving regular civilization.


In the valley.


At the border. Leaving Croatia, entering Bosnia & Herzegovina.


Welcome to Herzegovina!


Approaching intersection to Medjugorje.


Grafitti


First glimpse of the church in Medjugorje. We've finally made it!

Sunday, August 17, 2008

More photos from Wednesday and Thursday

Some food from the feast: fish "paste," octopus salad, cheese, prosciutto, garlic bread, and shrimp


The view from the room Doris arranged for us.


Once you turn off the main road towards Milna, there is only one road in the town. Houses are on one side, and the cliff is on the other.


Thursday, we went with Doris to the town Hvar (Yes, town of Hvar on the island of Hvar)


TONS of boats for rent at the port.


Another view of the beach in Milna.


Milna.


Back to Stari Grad to catch the car ferry back to the mainland.


A ferry heading towards Hvar.


Sailing on the Adriatic to Split.


Arriving at the port in Split.



Saturday, August 16, 2008

So I'll need to back track a little.

Wow.

Ok so...

This was Wednesday...

We had breakfast outside on the patio overlooking the Adriatic and a sunny blue sky. The server only knew enough English to say "No speak English. Speak Hrvatski, Germany, poco Italiano." I was so proud of myself for being able to piece enough words in both Croatian and German to ask for a glass of ice water (the buffet only had hot water for tea). He was very excited by my efforts. As we checked out, my dad asked the receptionist where the best place would be to exchange our currency. And guess what? Starwood to the rescue! She sends us down the street to Le Meridien (sister property to the hotel chain I work for, Westin). Holy crap I wish the employee rate had been available for us to stay there. It was ridiculous. Wow... WOW. Anyway, after a few fumbling attempts with their ATM, we headed out with 400 Kuna (about 80 USD). Next stop, the car ferry.

Now... it's a strange combination traveling on this trip; My 61-year-old dad who doesn't get excited over anything except the White Sox and Notre Dame football... and me, the energetic and feisty little 26-year-old who's going to take over the world with her language skills and passion for travel (plus I've got a lot of chutzpah). But both of us are definitely a couple of little wannabe know-it-all's. All morning, I told my dad that speaking louder and slower does not make anyone understand English any more the second time around. Meanwhile, he can't stop saying "I better not have to hear you tell me how to drive one more time on this entire trip." And yes, he said that after the car had stalled out for the 6th time. But hey, I don't know how to drive stick either. Anyway, so that series of moods and grouchy behaviour made for a lack-luster drive from Podstrana to downtown Split. We arrived at the port, queued up for the ferry, and spent the next two hours sailing along between the islands of Brac and Ciovo, on our way to Hvar. The scenery was unreal and the company was entertaining. Beautiful tan Italian couples relaxing on the upper deck, and families with children running around and playing on the lower inside decks. Then we arrived at the port on Hvar and the day was really just beginning.

(This is hard even for me to follow along, so don't worry if you get lost in the family tree).

Why were we going to Hvar in the first place? We were going to meet up with a family member named Doris.

Doris is the daughter of Margita.
Margita is the daughter of Dinko.
Dinko's sister is Frances.
Frances is my great-grandmother.

When the various family members living on Hvar migrated to the United States, they settled in Chicago, IL, where my dad was born. Those who didn't leave the "old country" stayed put on Hvar. Doris is one of those who have continued to stay put.

Getting around the island is easy. There are very few roads and at every intersection the signs point you towards the towns. Only 12,000 people live on the island, and the town we were on our way to (Milna) only has about 100. We arrived in Milna, parked, and looked for a restaurant called Oasa. We asked the host for Doris, and instead we were greeted by Ivica, her husband. "Oh! You are cousin. Yes, Doris drive to city Hvar to get mother. She come soon. You will have a drink here, yes?"

When she arrived, we hugged and kissed, she introduced us to her children, Duje (5) and Nina (8), and her mother, Margita. And then, just like with any family gathering, an impromptu feast began. Grilled vegetables, sardines, octopus salad. garlic bread, grilled shrimp (well Doris said it's kind of like shrimp but not the same), something that looked like hummus but "it is like uh... how you call... fish paste, yes," grilled sausage, lamb, and steak. OH! And their homemade wine. Margita and my dad went back and forth listing relatives and who was alive and who wasn't and who had kids and where everyone lived. Of course, she didn't speak English, so Doris repeated everything between them as a translator, and I sat to the side with my handy-dandy Croatian guide and looked up words and phrases along the way. Afterwards, Doris asked "Ok, so now we go back to house, yes, and I show you to room and you will rest maybe yes? Or you like to swim maybe?" My Dad said "ready to rest" and I said "ready to swim." Doris responded "And Lara, is it ok that Nina will swim with you?" Nina has been learning English in school for 3 years now, so it wasn't hard to talk to her. Every few sentences we would have to help each other with words, but it was really fun and entertaining (most of you know I'm good with kids, and I am easily excited by foreign language). Her brother Duje knows zero English, and he tagged along to go swimming.

I don't know if I seemed interesting to them or if it was hard to comprehend why I didn't speak their language but yet I was still a family member. Regardless, they seemed to have fun with me. For about 20-30 minutes, Nina went off with her friends on kayaks and Duje stayed with me. Wow, Kids have an amazing ability to communicate. The only words I could understand from him were "Da" and "Ne" which is just "yes" and "no." He would come over to me, hold my hands and put his feet on my legs to push himself up to make it look like he could stand higher in the water. Then he'd jump down and push my hands to the side and say something in Croatian. When i didn't respond, he'd push them to the side again and say "Da! Da!" Finally I realized he wanted me to pull him thru the water. Each time I did, he'd squeal with delight and swim away and clap and come back to holding my hands. Then he turned me around and jumped on my back and signaled me to swim. I stopped, pointed to his knee and then to my arms, showing him that he could sit on top of my shoulders and he got even more excited. Each time he climbed up and I stood up out of the water, he'd shout to the other kids and get excited. When I got exhausted and went to sit on the rocks, he'd pull my ankle and shout "Dochee!" at me. I shrugged my shoulders and said "Ne" so he went over to his friends. A few moments later, he shouted at me again "Hey! Dochee! Dochee!!!" I had no idea what was going on. I assumed it was a nickname or some way to address me, but later I found out it was Croatian for "Come on!!" Eventually Nina came back, called Duye over, and took us over to the snack bar. She bought us ice cream and we sat on the rocks until Doris came to get us. "Ok, now when you will shower and get ready, you will drive with me and we go to Vrboska, yes?"

Vrboska is a town on Hvar where parts of my dad's family lived before emigrating to Chicago. The house that they lived in is still there, but now there are none of our family members living in it. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a woman named Linda and her mother (I should have written down her name, but I think it's Mirvena?). Linda spoke English pretty well, but her mother didn't. So much like with my dad and Margita, a lot of translation took place between conversations. As it turns out, we're related to these two too! After telling Mirvena the family tree details, she says to Linda something about seeing a picture of my dad on a bicycle when he was a kid. My dad gives a confused look and asked "Uh... I'm not sure how that could be, but if so, that's really amazing." We were invited up into Mirvena's house, and as we all sat around the kitchen, Linda and Mirvena brought an envelop of photos to the table.

Picture after picture, my dad was nearly moved to tears. Each picture dated to sometime between 1930-1950. Pictures of my dad's aunts and uncles, his grandparents, and even his great grandmother. Then came a picture of three children on bicycles. Linda translated as Mirvena said "Yes, and this is you with your siblings." My dad looked closer and was still not totally convinced. Surely enough, the back of the picture has a short description and the word "Argentina."

A few months after my dad was born, his family moved to Buenos Aires, Argentina (my grandfather was in the Air Force). This picture was taken by my grandmother and sent to her mother in Chicago. Her mother then sent it to her sisters and brother on Hvar. The picture was still there on the island nearly 60 years later. How amazing.

More pictures were sorted thru, and more stories were shared. As we hugged, kissed, and left Mirvena's home, we walked down the street to the house my great grandmother lived in. Margita knocked on the door and spoke to a gal in her mid-20s and told her about our family living there some decades ago. She was delighted to meet us and we said hello and goodbye then headed back to the car and then back to Milna for the night.

Photos from the day:

Sailing to Hvar. Island in foreground, mainland in the distance.


Along the beach in Milna, on Hvar.


My dad with Mirvena and Nina, looking at photos.


Photos of relatives. I'm unsure as to who is on the left, but on the right is Teta Genevieve.


Picture taken in Argentina between 1948-1950


My dad and Doris, standing outside of their grandparents' house.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Leaving my audience in suspense.

Well, I typed up this wonderfully long blog on my laptop but then havent been able to connect to the internet anywhere to upload it. Now I am in an internet cafe in Medjugorje, Bosnia Herzegovina. This keyboard was not designed for English, so I feel like I am typing like a foreigner (Oh wait, I am).

The last 48 hours have been beyond amazing. Sailing on the Adriatic, meeting family members on the island of Hvar, and eating some really *different* food. TONS of pics to share but it will have to wait until wifi becomes available.

If you are not familiar with Medjugorje, it is a small city up in the mountains. Its only claim to fame is a tale of visions of Mary that take place before a group of villagers. (Google it for more info if interested.) Basically, a lot of Catholics come here to see what all the hoopla is about. Most of you know I always wear a few necklaces, and one of the charms has a picture of Mary. That was given to me by my cousin Diane about 10 or 11 years ago. She bought it here in Medjugorje. (insert more religious info and discussion here)

Alright, well it is time to grab some dinner and walk around in the heat some more.

P.S. Wow is it hot here.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Wait a second, you are where?

Click the map below for a larger view...

Zdravo! Welcome to Croatia.

So, my last entry was typed offline while at the Paris hotel, then quickly posted to the internet while I paid per minute at the Munich airport during our connection to Split, Croatia. Now, I'm here at the Hotel Sunce and I've happily discovered free wifi internet. Hooray!

We arrived around noon, picked up the rental car, and headed to the hotel. The receptionist spoke perfect English (as well as Croatian, German, and Italian as I noticed her speaking to other guests.) She showed us to our room, then before I could even think about going outside to check out the beach, I laid down for a nap. A 2 hour nap quickly passed by and 7 hours later, I woke up. Oops! I desperately needed to catch up on some sleep. It was the first time since Sunday morning that I was able to grab more than 3 hours of sleep.

I woke up in time to grab dinner at the hotel's restaurant, "Jelovnik," where we sat outside overlooking what I could see of the Mediterranean. It still has yet to sink in that I'm right next to the MEDITERRANEAN!

In the morning, we head to downtown Split where we catch a car ferry over to the island of Hvar. And now, some photos!

Sunset over Nova Scotia en route to Paris Sunday evening

Looking east on the Champs Elysees in Paris on Monday afternoon


Monday evening mass at Notre Dame cathedral


Vigil candles at the shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Notre Dame cathedral


Big daddy taking a picture of Notre Dame cathedral


Coming in for the landing at SPU airport, flying over the city of Trogir


Boats anchored along the beach at night in Podstrana, Croatia

Parle vous francais?

In the last 24 hours I have slowly and randomly realized what I forgot to pack. I went to CVS on the way to the airport to buy Claritin D which I then left in the car. Among some other forgotten items were my Paris guide book (Sorry Kate!), my rosaries for Medjugorje, oh yeah... and I FORGOT TO LEARN FRENCH!

I really did assume I would do fine knowing how to say "Parle vous anglais?" but it doesn't work when the answer is "no, madame." It's not so hard reading signs since French and Spanish share the same Latin roots and my Spanish reading skills are totally on point. I was able to scramble out enough French words and finger pointing to order 2 crepes with sugar and a bottle of water just outside of the Lourve this afternoon.

The Lourve was just a quick pit-stop in an introductory sight-seeing walk that my dad and I took today after trying to catch up on some much needed sleep. Starting at the Arc de Triomph, we headed down the Champs Elysees to the Lourve, crossed over the Seine to the Notre Dame cathedral where we sat in on the last half of a French-spoken service. By then, the crepes weren't enough to hold off our appetites, so we headed back to the hotel and ordered dinner in the room. Hooray for all the English-speaking staff who answered the in-room dining call. A gigantic BOOOO for the horrible exchange rate that causes that sandwich to be 28Euro. Even with a handy-dandy employee discount card a 14Euro sandwich is still $20.

Friday, August 1, 2008

and so the blog begins...

In 8 days, 13 hours, and 43 minutes, I depart dca for a 13 day / 12 night European adventure, with 8 hotel reservations in France, Croatia, and Bosnia, 8 planes to hop, a rental car, a ferry boat, and a partridge in a pear tree.